Buying Pre-Owned Louis Vuitton: Date Codes, Canvas and Condition

Louis Vuitton is the most popular brand in the pre-owned market, and for good reason: the canvas is tough, the designs are timeless and there is a model for every budget. Buying pre-owned does ask for a little knowledge. This guide covers the essentials.

Date codes and microchips

From the 1980s until early 2021, most Louis Vuitton items carry a small date code stamped inside: usually two letters followed by four digits. The letters refer to the workshop, the digits to the production period. Since 2007 the first and third digits give the week and the second and fourth the year (before 2007 they gave the month). From 2021 onwards, Louis Vuitton replaced date codes with an embedded microchip, so newer pieces have no visible code.

Good to know: a date code is not a serial number and it is not proof of authenticity on its own. It is one detail among many that experts check.

Know your canvas and leather

• Monogram canvas: the classic, introduced in 1896. Coated canvas is very durable and ages well.
• Damier Ebene and Damier Azur: the checkerboard canvases, in brown or in a lighter blue-white version. Azur shows dirt faster.
• Epi leather: textured, colourful and scratch-resistant leather.
• Vachetta: the untreated natural leather on handles and trims. It darkens to a honey-coloured patina over time. That is normal; check for water marks, dark stains and cracks.

What to check on a pre-owned piece

• Corners and edges: the first places to show wear on bags such as the Speedy and Keepall.
• Handles and straps: look at the vachetta and at the stitching.
• Interior: some older pieces with coated interiors can become sticky over time. The product notes and photos will mention this.
• Hardware: zips, clasps and padlocks should work smoothly. Light scratches on brass are normal.

Every item in our shop has a condition rank and detailed photos, so you can judge all of this before you buy.

Popular models to look for

The Speedy, Neverfull, Alma and Keepall are classics for good reason, and smaller items such as the Pochette Accessoires, wallets and Multiclés key cases are a great way to start a collection.

Reading a date code: an example

Take a date code ending in the digits 1018 on a bag made after 2007. The first and third digits (1 and 1) give the week: week 11. The second and fourth digits (0 and 8) give the year: 2008. On pieces from before 2007, the same digits refer to the month instead of the week. The two letters in front identify the workshop. Remember that a correct-looking code alone is never proof of authenticity: experts always look at the whole item.

Collaborations and special editions

Over the years, Louis Vuitton has worked with artists and designers on editions that are now sought after on the pre-owned market. Well-known examples are the graffiti pieces with Stephen Sprouse, the colourful Monogram Multicolore created with Takashi Murakami, and the collaboration with Supreme. Limited and discontinued editions like these are only available pre-owned, which makes them interesting for collectors. Read more in the hidden treasures of secondhand designer bags.

Questions to ask before you buy

1. What will you carry? A laptop and documents call for a Neverfull MM or GM; a phone, cards and keys fit in a Pochette Accessoires.
2. Canvas or leather? Coated canvas is the most low-maintenance; Epi leather is elegant and scratch-resistant.
3. How often will you use it? For daily use, rank A, AB or B gives you the best value. For a gift, choose N, S or SA. See what our condition ranks mean.
4. Which size suits you? Louis Vuitton uses numbers (Speedy 25, 30, 35) and PM, MM and GM. Always check the measurements on the product page.

Need help choosing a model? Read which Louis Vuitton bag is right for you and our article about the world of Louis Vuitton.

Frequently asked questions

My pre-owned Louis Vuitton has no date code. Is that a problem?
Not necessarily. Some very old pieces and items made after early 2021 have no visible date code, and on some models the code is hard to find or has worn away. A specialist will look at many other details.

Can vachetta that has darkened be made light again?
Not really. Patina is part of the leather's natural ageing. Many people love an even honey colour; avoid harsh cleaners that can cause stains.

Shop pre-owned Louis Vuitton

Browse our full Louis Vuitton collection, or look by category: bags, wallets and key cases. Every item is checked for authenticity.